Upper Extremity Electromyography During Bouldering: Research Report

Abstract

Background: Despite the growing popularity of bouldering, little is known about the degree and variability
of muscle activation that occurs while solving bouldering problems. The purpose of this study was to explore
the electromyography of eight upper extremity and trunk muscles during a session of indoor bouldering while
completing four different problems.
Methods: Eleven climbers with self-reported ability to climb a V-scale V4 problem grade or higher and regularly
boulder at least two days/week for at least six months participated in this study. Electromyography was used to
record muscle activity of the flexor digitorum superficialis, extensor carpi radialis longus, biceps brachii, triceps
brachii, anterior deltoid, middle deltoid, posterior deltoid, and latissimus dorsi.
Conclusion: The highest average EMG across all four climbs occurred in the flexor digitorum superficialis,
latissimus dorsi, and extensor carpi radialis brevis. Significant differences in muscle activity were noted between
the anterior deltoid and latissimus dorsi, flexor digitorum superficialis and biceps brachii, triceps brachii and
flexor digitorum superficialis, posterior deltoid and latissimus dorsi, and triceps brachii and latissimus dorsi.
This information may be useful in developing a strength and conditioning program for